Why Full-Sun Sites Matter — and Why Choose Natives

Full-sun sites — areas receiving six or more hours of direct sunlight each day — are far tougher on plants than most people realise. These spaces heat up quickly, dry out fast, and often have poorer soil quality than shaded or sheltered areas. Across New Zealand, long, bright summers and fast-draining soils can make full-sun conditions especially demanding.

Common Challenges in Full-Sun Areas

• High UV and intense light can scorch foliage on sun-sensitive plants.

• Dry, hot soils lose moisture rapidly, stressing shallow-rooted species.

• Reflected heat from paving, gravel, and walls raises temperatures further.

• Wind + sun exposure accelerates moisture loss from plants and soil.

Many exotic species require constant watering or shade to survive.
Native New Zealand plants, however, are naturally adapted to these conditions. They feature:

• tough, small, or waxy leaves

• deep or fibrous root systems

• excellent drought tolerance

• resistance to reflected heat and harsh exposure

These traits make them ideal for creating hardy, low-maintenance landscapes across New Zealand.

Choosing the Right Plants for Full Sun

Not all sunny sites are the same. Coastal areas, slopes, and urban beds each have unique challenges. The right plants depend on where your full-sun area is located.

Sunny Garden Beds & Borders

Challenges:

Bright light, heat, shallow soils, fast drying, reflected heat.

Recommended Native Plants (Expanded)

Leptospermum scoparium (Mānuka) thrives in bright, open sites, producing masses of flowers while coping easily with high UV and poor soils. It is one of the toughest shrubs for a hot, sunny bed.

Coprosma ‘Hāwera’ forms a dense, bright-green groundcover that handles intense sun and summer dryness with ease, staying lush even in the hottest conditions.

Hebe ‘Icing Sugar’ maintains a neat form and produces long-lasting flower displays in full sun. It continues to colour up beautifully through dry, warm seasons.

Austroderia richardii (South Island toetoe) grows strongly in exposed, sunny beds, adding bold structure and elegant plumes while thriving in heat and nutrient-poor soils.

Why These Plants Work

All are naturally adapted to high light, low moisture, and exposed conditions — offering long-season interest without heavy irrigation.

Dry, Open Hillsides or Slopes

Challenges:

Intense sun, prolonged dryness, thin soils, heat, rapid drainage.

Recommended Native Plants (Expanded)

Kunzea ericoides (Kānuka) grows rapidly on poor, sun-baked hillsides, anchoring soil while tolerating heat, dryness, and exposure.

Ozothamnus leptophyllus (Tauhinu) excels on hot, exposed slopes, with fine silvery foliage designed to reflect heat and reduce moisture loss.

Poa cita (Silver tussock) stabilises soil with deep fibrous roots and tolerates intense sun and dry winds, adding year-round texture and movement.

Why These Plants Work

They anchor slopes, tolerate extreme dryness, handle high UV, and stay attractive throughout the year.

Sunny Coastal or Exposed Open Areas

Challenges:

Full sun, strong winds, gritty or sandy soils, occasional salt exposure.

Recommended Native Plants (Expanded)

Olearia solandri is a robust shrub with leathery foliage that withstands heat, wind, salt, and coastal exposure — ideal for tough seaside locations.

Coprosma robusta thrives in hot, windy, drought-prone coastal settings. Its glossy leaves tolerate sun and mild salt influence, and it performs reliably in coarse soils.

Muehlenbeckia astonii is a striking divaricating shrub with wiry branches that shrug off sun, wind, and extreme dryness, making it one of the best performers in harsh, open environments.

Why These Plants Work

Their foliage, branch structure, and roots are naturally adapted to intense sun, wind, and sandy or gritty soils.

Signature Full-Sun Natives

These standout species perform reliably across a wide range of sunny site types:

• Leptospermum scoparium (Mānuka) — hardy, drought-tolerant, excellent for pollinators.

• Ozothamnus leptophyllus (Tauhinu) — thrives on hot, exposed slopes and poor soils.

• Poa cita (Silver tussock) — perfect for dry, sunny landscapes and erosion control.

• Hebe ‘Icing Sugar’ — compact, colourful, and sun-loving.

• Coprosma ‘Hāwera’ — a durable groundcover ideal for hot, dry borders.

Practical Planting & Care Tips for Full-Sun Sites (Expanded)

1. Site Preparation & Soil Improvement

Preparing soil well is one of the most important steps for success in full-sun gardens. Begin by loosening the soil to improve root penetration; digging or using a garden fork helps break up compacted layers and increases oxygen flow. Adding compost or well-rotted organic matter improves moisture retention without making the soil heavy — crucial in exposed sites where topsoil dries rapidly.

If you're working with clay or compacted ground, improve drainage by mixing in coarse sand, fine gravel, or pumice; this stops water pooling around roots while still allowing moisture to be stored deeper down. Conversely, sandy soils benefit from more organic material to slow moisture loss.

Before planting, remove weeds thoroughly — full-sun weeds grow aggressively and will compete for limited moisture and nutrients. Well-prepared soil ensures faster establishment and stronger, more resilient plants.

2. Mulching

Mulching keeps soil cooler, retains moisture, and reduces weeds. A 5–8 cm layer of bark, wood chips, shredded tree mulch, or gravel is ideal. Gravel works well for drought-tolerant plants like tussocks, Corokia, Coprosma, and Muehlenbeckia, reflecting less heat and maintaining soil moisture.

When mulching, keep a small gap around stems to avoid moisture buildup and rot. Over time, mulch enriches the soil, encourages microorganisms, and helps your plants thrive with less watering.

3. Best Planting Time

Full-sun natives establish best when planted in early spring or early-to-mid autumn, avoiding the hottest or driest periods. Cooler air and milder soil conditions reduce stress on young roots while providing sufficient warmth for root growth. Avoid planting in midsummer unless you can provide consistent, deep watering.

4. Watering During Establishment

Water deeply and infrequently during the first one to two growing seasons to encourage deep root growth. Shallow, frequent watering leads to weak, surface-level roots that struggle during heatwaves or dry spells. Focus irrigation at the root zone rather than the foliage, and water in the morning or evening to minimise evaporation.

After establishment, many full-sun species such as tussocks, Coprosma, Mānuka, and Olearia become highly drought-tolerant and low-maintenance.

5. Spacing, Grouping & Microclimates

Give plants space for airflow while grouping shrubs and tussocks to create microclimates that shade soil and trap moisture. Mix tall structural species like toetoe or cabbage trees with mid-height shrubs and low groundcovers to reduce heat stress and protect smaller plants.

Consider reflective surfaces, north-facing walls, or paved areas, and plant the most heat-tolerant species there. This layering and grouping approach increases resilience and reduces water requirements.

6. Long-Term Benefits of Sun-Loving Natives

Once established, full-sun natives require minimal maintenance. Their deep roots stabilise soil, reduce erosion, improve water infiltration, and provide habitat for insects and birds. They thrive in NZ’s dry, sunny summers without the heavy irrigation exotic plants often need, and their foliage, flowers, and structure create interest and ecological value year-round.

Planning Your Full-Sun Garden (Anywhere in NZ)

1. Assess Your Site

Observe sunlight hours, soil type, drainage, heat reflection, slope, and wind exposure.

2. Divide Into Zones

• Frontline: most exposed

• Middle zone: semi-sheltered

• Sheltered zone: protected, deeper soils

3. Choose a Mix of Plant Types

Combine shrubs like Mānuka and Tauhinu, structural species like toetoe or tussocks, compact Hebes for borders, and hardy Coprosma groundcovers.

4. Prepare the Soil

Loosen soil, add compost, and mulch deeply.

5. Plant in the Right Season

Spring or autumn for the best establishment.

6. Establish & Maintain

Deep watering, weed management, and pest protection during the first stages.

7. Build Layers

Use a mix of low, medium, and tall species to stabilise soil, shade the ground, reduce heat, and support biodiversity.